Day 8 – The free day. Part 2

[… continued …]

Reindeer

Reindeer

The three of us follow the road further. Only footmarks and tracks of snowmobiles are visible on the road. The old road goes along the flat top of a steep hill, and the new road goes a couple of meters above the sea level. In the middle there is the old trolly line. The weather is fine, sunny, there is no wind, only quite a frost. On our way we meet several of the Svalbard’s distinctive reindeer (Rangifer tarandus platyrhynchus)

After some time the airport is visible, and we are heading uphill. On our way a big bus passes us and it is soon followed by a minivan which stops and we are asked if we’re fine and where we are going without a guide. the woman reminds us that it is not the best idea to wander around ourselves, but also says that there haven’t been any polar bears seen in this area. We continue our journey, soon the entrance of the seed vault is visible, and Juris is already excited. Juris goes straight to the door, me and Agnese go along the road and stop at the sign “Svalbard Global Seed Vault”.

Seed vault

Seed vault

We are there now, the entrance is a big concrete building with steel door at the top of which there are many triangle-shaped tablets made out of bright metal and at the front of which there is a short metal grid bridge. We drink some tea, eat some sandwiches and head back to the town. We meet on the way the same reindeer, this time they are crossing the road. A bit further on we find another Geocache which surprised me with its originality. It was not hard to find as it was hanging in a ceramic bowl, and I marveled that it was still intact.

We get back to the trolly sorting station, and the kicksled are still here. Agnese sat down and we were sliding down the hill. I have not managed to learn to control them as well as some other guys. They are as a chair on rails which are extended backwards, on which one is standing and controlling the sledge. At the junction we switch places, but Juris meanwhile crossed the slope straight across the snow and soon was at the bottom of the hill. Me and Agnese pick up the speed. The road has a bend which was driven along perfectly by her, and behind us a car followed with a normal speed. That was such an experience!

On our way we stop by the same store to use the internet. The post cards here are cheaper than in the post office – 7NOK. In addition I eye some souvenirs and playing cards for my collection. Soon after that we are back home where we will be staying the last night. Some are already home, some others still out.

We find out from Anders that a polar bear has attacked Czech tourists. Later we find out a more precise information from Maija. In the morning the polar bear had looked inside a tent, taken one guy by its hand and dragged outside. Everyone had been surprised as the scaring device around the tent had not worked. They had shot with a revolver (as far as I understand they didn’t have a guide), but that only could injure the bear. The polar bear had run away and later people were following its tracks to kill it as an injured bear is dangerous. Since the new scaring devices are not always working, those who still have the old Norwegian army scaring devices which are no longer produced, keep them as treasure as those are said to be very reliable. Also the university is looking for better alternatives for such cases but so far they have not succeeded.

Lecture

Lecture

Juris is preparing to go to a museum and eats lunch before us. We are preparing our food and later will go to the same (university) building to attend a lecture about the Solar eclipse. On our way we meet Alīna and Edgars, who are coming from their guesthouse. Soon we are there. Also here we need to take off our shoes at the entrance, and then inside one can walk around in socks or slippers. The building itself is big and spacious. The auditory is already crowded, some have been timely to take the seats, some are looking for a place along the sides. We were warned that it’s not allowed to sit on the side-stairs due to fire safety rules. Then we find a place at the very front on the floor and find out that the 2 empty seats are free, so we quickly occupy those. From the middle I am passed my camcorder which I had given them from the side to film the lecture. Since I am in the front now, I will film everything from the front so that the talks get recorded better.

The following topics are looked at in the lecture: The safety measures for observing the Sun, how to observe it, how to use the eclipse glasses; which camera setup to use at certain eclipse moments; The structure of the Sun and the principles of its activity. We also found out about the Sun spots, magnetic storms and how the auroras originate. As one of the lecturers said, the greatest dream would be to see the total Solar eclipse here and an around an aurora. The lecture was cool, after it there was a time for questions and answers to them. At the reception there are eclipse glasses which we can get for free.

We head home and find another kicksled, and are pushing it to home as well so that it would be easier to move the bags in the morning. Kristīne un Everita have decided to go to sauna which is located close to our home.

Meanwhile I have firmly decided to photograph stars tonight and to try to catch the Iridium satellites which will fly over shortly before 2am, one soon after the other. At the same time maybe it will be possible to take a photo of aurora. Also others are interested, but they are going to sleep and asking to be woken up if the sky will be clear.

Before 2am Agnese decided to go outside to take a look, and came back with bad news that nothing is visible above. A shame, have to leave out photographing of Svalbard’s sky, but it is likely that I’ll come here again some day. Then we go to sleep, after all the greatest event of this trip which we came here for – the total Solar eclipse -, is happening in the morning! We hope for the best weather and that no clouds will interfere with viewing this phenomenon.
Good night!

Day 4 – the whiteout and the blackout

15.03.2015
The morning is overcast, with strong wind about 14m/s. The travellers at a well set breakfast table are rather quiet, maybe they all are hoping silently that the weather will improve, and the day will be nice and sunny.

The plan for the day is to go by snowmobiles to Tempelfjorden. Before the trip the Arctic Adventures company gives us detailed safety instructions, dresses us up in special suits and boots. Of course the helmet, the goggles and the gloves are provided. A short instruction on how to drive a snowmobile and … let’s go … :) The journey has started. At the beginning everyone very cautiously tries out the accelerator, then the brake, and in a couple of minutes woohoo … the pedal to the metal as much as that’s possible when going in a line one after the other.

We start the drive to Tempelfjorden. On the way we stop several times and take some photos and videos. The drivers switch and the relaxing/chill-out has started. That’s because when driving the snowmobile you concentrate on the road but when sitting at the back you can enjoy the nature by observing the leisurely reindeer.

One of the stops was at a frozen waterfall. Cool. Turns out we have driven on a frozen river rather than it seemed to me – along a valley between hills! When Tempelfjorden has been reached a wonderful view to Tuna and Von Post glaciers and the bay can be seen. We don’t see any seals or bears, but the view is nevertheless lovely.

We stop for the lunch in Fredheim where Hilmar Nous spent 26 out of his 38 winters in Svalbard. It is also possible to see the only ship hotel which is frozen in the ice – Noordenlicht. The lunch is rather tasty taking into account that it’s in a pouch, and require addition of water, something similar to Rollton instant noodles!

Us on snowmobiles

Us on snowmobiles

When we have eaten and drank some tea or syrup-water which is very popular here, we leave for the return trip. The wind is already much stronger, the snow is falling thoroughly and it is blown right into our faces. At some moments it is not even possible to see anything. Every minute I need to clean the snow from my goggles to be able to see the lights of the snowmobile driving in front of us and it would be possible to see where I should drive. With the other hand I need to hold the straight course and the accelerator! We cannot lag behind the snowmobile driving in front of us as then you can be left alone who knows where, as everything around is white and it is not possible to understand where the ground ends and the sky starts!

Approaching the town of Longyearbyen the blizzard calms down but instead it starts raining as the temperature is above zero. Where it was not possible to suspect a river in the morning, now the water already starts to accumulate in some places.

We have successfully finished the route of today. But do you think that the adventures of today have finished?! No! While preparing dinner in the evening (it will be vegetarian dinner this time, pasta with cheese), we notice that the wind is whistling behind the window. And then suddenly, puff – there is no electricity! A silence; the first idea – the fuses have been blown out as there were several kettles on. But no, turns out there is no electricity in the entire village! We find different torches, which happen to be taken along by some of us, we turn them on, pour the hot water in flasks, we also pour the cold water in some empty bottles as we realise that the water is not being renewed in the tap.

We are sitting around the table and playing the board game Uno. From time to time somebody tells some black joke, like about the last text message which we could send since the phones also will stop working soon. From time to time someone goes to get something warmer to put on as the warmth gets blown out of the house gradually. Whoops, the electricity is back for a moment, everyone is happy, but that’s just for a moment…

It’s quite late, somebody is rumouring that this is not a normal situation and, if the electricity won’t be renewed for too long, we will need to evacuate the island! Hmm… just it’s not really clear in which way as in this wind (around 24m/s excluding gusts and blizzard) it cannot be believed that any plane will lift off! But we are calm and a we have a thought of a brighter tomorrow, so we go to sleep with woollen socks on as that’s safer! :)
Will see what tomorrow will bring!

Day 3 – Mountains attempt to take their part

14.03.2015
The day started just like the last 858 days of my life – with a run. And yet this turned out to be very different day indeed. The first full day here in Longyearbyen! The post office happens to be located 2.4 km from our living quarters – ideal for running down to it to send a postcard to my sister back home in Valmiera and then running back uphill to collect the so necessary five kilometers – minimal amount per day set for us by Alina. The weather is really nice today – sunny and without wind. This naturally means the default running outfit for me – just a T-shirt and shorts. I don’t know the temperature, but since my ears started to get cold in the way back, I estimate it to be slightly colder than, say, -5°.

First full day comes with the first breakfast offered by the guesthouse. I was a bit worried about whether there will be also something edible or just toasters with jam and chocolate, serials and other poisonous food. No worries, my dear reader – there were plenty of real food available including but not limited to two kinds of cheese and four kinds of meat, as well as some cucumbers and even pate.

9 o’clock and we are ready to go! Today we are expecting a hike outside the city over some minor mountains. It is said to be over in 5-6 hours, so a half-day trip. We are provided by the necessary equipment – snowshoes, walking poles and windproof gloves if needed – and we are to be guided by two official guides – the main guide Katja, originally from Germany, and her helper Luise. Katja also carries a rifle in case of polar bear attack, which happens quite rarely in this area, but the probability of encountering the king of Arctic is certainly not equal to zero (and, of course, also not negative, as you may remember from your math lectures). Our guides are assisted by the most inspiring member of our little team, who hiked all the way completely barefoot and also without any other clothing than that of his own fur. The dog even enjoyed laying back in snow and waiting for us, other members, now and then.

View to Longyearbyen

View to Longyearbyen

10 o’clock and off we go! We are heading the big mountains very near the guesthouse of ours. Walking in snowshoes is quite easy, although this is the first such experience for me. Snowshoes provide extra surface area for us not to sink deeply in loose snow, as well as a protection from slipping down the cliff because of their spikes. Soon enough we have reached the foot of the mountain and start to incline a bit. Let me just run a bit ahead of the story by stating that the hike was spectacular. It was just perfect and certainly one of my most memorable hikes I have ever done! Although our pace was really slow and we made breaks really often, the magnificent views around us made me think of what an amazing adventure I am in.

Katja had explained before that the weather can change quite a bit rapidly in winter, and we noticed some changes right away. The morning sun had left us alone, and wind had appeared instead. As we progressed more towards the peak of the mountain, wind gathered in force and sometimes blew really hard. I was happy to be part of it all and to feel the raw strength of nature. It was not cold, however, because of several layers of clothing, only my fingers started to get cold now and then, but it was a quite easy-to-solve problem by just swinging the arms sparingly to induce better blood flow to fingertips.

At one point it was stated that we are now on a glacier – also the first time in my life. Yeah, today is the day of many first times, and I think not just for me. I think the name of this glacier was Larsbreen, which means in Norwegian the Lars Glacier (but I may be wrong, don’t put all your money on this). Then there was a second glacier towards the end of the hike – Longyearbreen. Between the glaciers we reached the highest point of the trip – the Sarkofagen mountain ridge. The weather on the ridge was really windy and thus quite cold (particularly, if you want to take some pictures with your touchscreen, which requires removing your glove). It was also snowing a bit, so the panorama around us was quite dim, but something was seen anyway, and that was really beautiful – the mountains were (and still is) majestic and looks even a bit surreal covered in snow and ice. The peak was a bit more than 500 meters above sea level, so we had ascended by some 450 meters or so.

Then there was a tea (or coffee, or water and some cookies, or a strange syrup) break a bit lower from the ridge, where there was a bit less windy, and then the final stretch back to the civilization. Outside the civilization we met only a couple of other groups, smaller than ours, and one solo traveller, as well as we got lucky to observe some reindeer from a distance. Our furry colleague was always first to notice the presence of reindeer sniffing the air towards them and wanting to catch some, and Katja tried to convince him (although unsuccessfully) that this is not his dinner.

On the way back Agnese offered a more fun way of getting down the slopes by laying on your back and being pulled head first by two people pulling by your walking poles. Where is fun, comes a sorrow, and this was a place I left my mobile phone by letting it accidentally slip out of my pocked. I noticed it only at the end of our journey, so what to do – mountains, however much inspiration they give, also take their part back. Like everybody of us – they give and they take, and you are not always allowed to choose, what is given and what is taken. It was a clear sign for me that I must reconsider the role of stuff and things in my life – maybe I still own too much. I must, however, mention that after the discovery of the loss Katja and Alina went back by a snowmobile to this place, where I was pulled, and found my phone already covered with an icy skin, but still working. This is, however, a different story that does not go well together with my version of giving and taking, so this is not a part of today’s tale.

The journey is now ended, but the day is still on. Alina and Juris walked down to the city centre to see the church, while the rest of us rested at home. The rest of us rested – what a word play! But also other parts of this story were actually described with inaccurate words. The mountain we hiked was actually just a small hill, the big journey was actually just a small walk (we covered only 8.5 km in just over four hours), and the home we rested at was just a cozy guesthouse. But this is the life – when you are placed in a so different environment from usual, everything seems unnaturally amazing!

Day 2 – The arrival day

Those 7 of us who came to Oslo last night spent it in the Gardemoen airport which is claimed to be one of the top 10 European airports for sleeping. There were several options ranging from the floor to nice-looking cushioned stools in one of the cafes. However, the cafe area appeared rather busy and it would take long time to wait till everyone has left. So we went for some shorter space along 3 seats in a row of chairs on the 2nd floor for 3 of us, and a quiet corner on floor for the other 4. I opted for the chairs and spent a very peaceful and not at all uncomfortable night,

On the other side of security control it turned out that Longyerbyen flights are on the international schedule rather than the domestic. I believe that might be because Svalbard is not part of Schengen zone while Norway itself is.
We met Anders at the gate. Some (unsuccessful) attempts to fix the map on the homepage and I had to leave the internet behind. That’s not too bad as we were supposed to have wifi when airborne! We are flying Norwegian airlines after all, and they have free wifi on board. Except that the wifi experience this time was not the best. It took a long time to open google, and it was impossible to open gmail. Some Norwegian newspaper webpages worked better, however. So no success with the map again.

We landed a couple of hours later in a snowy place next to a body of water, Longyearbyen. The mountains are not comparable to Alps, but so close to the sea they are still impressive. To get a better first impression 5 of us had decided to walk from the airport to the guesthouse. The others would go by bus (75 NOK) and take all the suitcases and large backpacks with them. The walk to the town centre is 4.5km, and to our guesthouse it’s 7km in total, so not impossible at all. Technically there’s a risk of polar bears between the airport and the boundary of the city (first 3km), but the risk of being hit by a car is in fact greater, so we didn’t worry about that much.

Polar bear sign

Polar bear sign

Jeans were perhaps not the best piece of clothing to wear for the walk as we had a head-wind and we were longing for some skiing-trousers which had gone along with the suitcases by the bus. On the positive side, we saw some reindeer and enjoyed the walk in other ways. We were not the first ones to reach the “Polar bears around” road sign, so our sticker was only about the 10th on that road-sign pole. But we have now marked our presence :)

We are living in 2 guesthouses which are located next to each other. Ours was said to have one public pc with internet connection. That sounded as a great potential for wifi to me, so I had taken a router with me to try to set it up. In the real life there had been some improvements and there were wifi routers in our building. Unfortunately having a router and having a wifi are two different things, as it wasn’t working. After some educational exploring we attached the power cable from my router to theirs and got the wifi signal. Later on when talking to the receptionist, we found out that this access point has been the previous wifi they have had and now they have a new system to connect to if we want internet. With one bar signal strength out of five in our building on good times that was not really usable, however, and the fact that they are supposedly working on improvements didn’t help either. So we were happy to use their old one without them noticing.

The guesthouses are nice. Both of them are very clean and warm. There’s a kitchen with all the pots, pans, plates and cutlery, a fridge, an oven and a stove and even a dishwasher. Thus we have a very good setup to prepare our own food which we have brought with us from Riga. However, just before the dinner there’s some fun going on outside – a snowmobile jumping show was a part of a restaurant opening celebration and our kitchen windows were perfectly positioned to see it. We went outside for a closer look and got a welcome drink on the house in the new restaurant.

This had been a long day, so after some cozy chatting around dinner table we went to sleep to be ready for a hiking trip on the following day.